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About the city

Lucknow, the land of ‘Nawabs' synonymous with lavish extravagance is well known for its ‘tehzeeb, or extreme delicacy and cultivated manners. Fine living is a tradition and social etiquette an integral part of life. The proverbial pehle aap - after you - is a legendary mannerism that exhoes the inherent courtesy that a Lucknowi pays to every person regardless of station or rank. The present day city was established by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, when he shifted his capital from Faizabad to Lucknow in 1775. It emerged as an important political and cultural centre, rivaling Delhi in its patronage to art and literature. In 1856, the British annexed Avadh, exiling the last Nawab, wajid ali Shah, on grounds of misrule. Lucknow was one of the most volatile centres, during the Mutiny of 1857, as it was a key administrative and military centre of the British East India Company. Today, the modern city of Lucknow sprawls on the both sides of river Gomti and is a fine blend of traditions and modernity. It still retains the regal ambience and mannerisms, while adapting to the needs of modern world. Lucknow is also famous for its elaborate cuisine and ‘Chikankaari' or exquisite shadow-work embroidery on fine muslin cloth.

Lucknow is courtesy, culture and chivalry epitomised. Capital of Uttar Pradesh situated on the bank of River Gomti, Lucknow is a perfect blend of the traditional, modern and the ultra-modern. The city's glorious yesterday is evident in its art, architecture, craft, literature, dance and music. The brave sentinels of yesterday, though crumbling and dilapidated, give a glimpse of the aura of the mighty Nawabs. However, modern Lucknow is very much akin to any other city with typical traits of unplanned development, pollution and crowded streets. But that not deter you, come take a plunge

Lucknow is today the capital of Uttar Pradesh, the most populous state in the Union. Perhaps named after Lakshman, brother of Rama it later became the capital of Oudh (or Awadh). This Mughal province was ruled by nawabs who asserted their independence of elhi from 1707 onwards. These rulers were Shiva Muslims, and Lucknow remains the main centre in the north of this sect. The Nawabs of Lucknow were found of song and dance and they nurtured Urdu verse as well as the Kaltak School of dance. Their monuments excelled in the use of arches, pavilions and domes. Despite the moderninsing of the city, Lucknow has preserved its charm, and it remains a stylish and relaxed palace to visit.

The city has commendable bus service in terms of connectivity and one can reach any part of the city very economically. A word of caution is in terms of reckless driving. Cycle rickshaws and tempos are best options for short distances. There are also Vikrams, which are like mini-buses and ply on various routes at a fixed price. Chauffeur-driven cars can be hired, but self-driven ones are not available.

Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh situated along the banks of the River Gomti rose to prominence as the centre of the Nawabs of Avadh. Legend says that Lucknow derived its name from Lucknau named after Lakshmana (a character in the famous Epic Ramayan) when his elder brother Rama gave away this part of the country to him. The huge mausoleums of the nawabs and the ruins of the Residency which stood witness to one of th e most remarkable episodes in the Indian Mutiny in 1857, make it an interesting place to visit. Historically reputed as a city of culture, Lucknow is famous for its gharana of music and chickken (shadow work embroidery) work.

Walk down the intricate maze of bazaars and lanes of Old Lucknow and you will hear the echoes of the past. A reminder of jingling anklets, the faint laughter of its cultured courtesans, whispered Urdu poetry and strains of haunting melodies from days gone by, Lucknow is the city of romance and nostalgia. Its famous courtesan Umrao Jaan, its Nawabs and Begums are no more but Lucknow continues its tradition of culture and 'tehzeeb' with a love for gracious living. Known as the Constantinople of India in the old days, Lucknow was the seat of culture and the arts. It was the birthplace of the graceful kathak and was famous for its qawwali. Many of the erstwhile gharanas of classical music and dance originate from this extraordinary city while its fine jewellery and exquisite embroidery are unrivalled even today. Known for its delectable Avadhi cuisine and paan chewing etiquette, there is much in the city that is to be savoured.

Demography

Lucknow has a population of about 25, 68,000. Male constitute 53% of the population and females 47%. Lucknow has an average literacy rate of 69%.

History

Lucknow traces its origin to the Suryavanshi dynasty of Ayodhya in ancient times, and derives its name from Lakshmana, brother of Lord Rama, the hero of the Indian epic, Ramayana. The city came into prominence only during the 18th century. In 1732, Muhammad Shah, one of the later kings of the once powerful Mughal dynasty, appointed Mohammad Amir saadat Khan, a Persian adventurer of nable lineage, to the viceroyalty of the area known as Awadh, of which Lucknown was a part. Saadat Khan was the founder of the famous dynasty known as the Nawab Wazirs- a dynasty that changed the face of this hitherto little-known place. Lucknow was set up in its present from by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula in 1775.

Lucknow was part of the Kosala kingdom (modern Ayodhya) ruled by the Ikshvaku dynasty. It is believed that the region comprising modern Lucknow was given by Lord Rama to his brother Lakshman. The original name of Lucknow was therefore Lakshmanpur, popularly known as Lakhanpur or Lachmanpur. Lucknow became prominent on the map when it was made the capital under the Nawabs of Avadh. Lucknow's beautiful mosques and palaces are a legacy from this era and many of its paintings are exhibited at its Art Gallery today. Of the monuments, the Bara Imambara, the Chota Imambara and the Rumi Darwaza are magnificent historical remnants.In 1856, the province of Avadh was annexed by the British. However, in the 1857 Uprising, the garrison based at the Residency was attacked by the Indian soldiers and this incident is referred to as the famous 'Siege of Lucknow'. The Siege was controlled by Sir Henry Havelock, Sir James Outram and Sir Colin Campbell. The students of La Martiniere College too defended the Residency and became the first college in the world to receive the battle honours of the British Empire. In Avadh alone 150,000 people were killed - of which 100,000 were civilians. Today the ruins of the Residency, and the picturesque Shaheed Smarak are a reminder of these events.

Modern History

In the pre-Independence days, Lucknow played a significant role in history with the Lucknow Pact --an agreement between the Indian National Congress and the Muslim League. In 1916, Mohammed Ali Jinnah, then a member of the Indian National Congress, negotiated with the Muslim League to reach an agreement to exhort the British Government for self-rule. Jinnah was the mastermind of the pact and later went on to become the leader of the Muslim League. The Pact was also significant in the fact that it thawed relations between the two prominent groups of the Indian National Congress - the extremists led by Tilak and the moderates led by Gokhale.

Recent History

Lucknow continues to house a religious mix of Hindus and Muslims who live in communal harmony. Although its last Hindu-Muslim riot took place in the 1920s, Lucknow saw no riots during Partition, nor after the demolition of the Babri mosque. On the cultural front, the city no longer has the standing that it once enjoyed but it continues to nurture an active literary community and produces exponents of music and dance.

Old Lucknow

The heart of Lucknow, however, is around the older area of Chowk. Here you can see the best examples of the florid Oudh style of architecture. The Bara Imambara is one of the oddest buildings in India. Constructed in 1754 as a famine- relief project, it covers the modest tomb of its bulder Asaf- ud- daula (nawab 1775- 97). Thevaulted hall is one of the largest of its kind in the world. Behind it is the Bhulbhulaiya, a labyrinth. Note the quaint restrictions on access to this. To one side is a large mosque (closed to non- Muslims), and to the other a deep baoli, or well, in a cloister.

Opposite the gatehouse of the Bara Imambara is Laxman Tila, the site of the original Rajpur town of Lakhimpur, now crowned by the Alamgir Mosque.

Nearby is the Rumi Darwaza. The gates of Indian cities are often named after the town they lead to. This name translates literally as Rome Gate, which refers not to Rome itself but to Byzantium. By the time this gate was built Constantinople (now Istanbul) had been in the hands of the Turks for 300 years, and yet the tradition of the Eastern Roman Empire lingered on. Whether it is really a replica of one of Byzantium's gates is another matter.

Walk through the gate and head for the Clock Tower, at 67 m the highest in India. Next to this is the Art Gallery housed ina baradari of Muhamed Ali Shah (nawab 1837- 42). Upstairs are portraits of most of the nawabs and kings of Oudh, and on the ground floor level you cansee saris being embroidered, a traditional Muslim art in Lucknow. This is called chikan work. Nearby is the Satkhanda which, as the sat in the name implies, was intended to be a seven storeyed watchtower. Foru floors had been completed by the time of the death of Muhammed Ali Shah, and that was where it remained.

Over the road the Chhota Imambara (small or Hussainabad Imambara) is the tomb of Muhammed Ali Shah and his mother. The approach is beside a long tank flanked on one side by a mosque and on the other by a clumsy model ofte aj Mahal. The domes of both these buildings are finished off wit replicas of the crown of Iudh. The interior of the tomb is actually more like a palace, and a rather jolly one at that. Most enjoyable. An imambara, incidentally, is the place to which the tazias (replicas of Caliph Husain's tomb) are carried during Muharram, which is why you see them lying around these buildings. The Jama Masjidb is also in this area but, like many Shia shrines, closes to non-Muslims.

The Shahnajaf Imambara is the tomb of Ghazi0 ud- din Haidar (nawab 1814- 1827) and his wives. It takes its name from the city near Baghdad where Caliph Ali was nurdered, a key place for the Shias. There appears to be a riverside walk between here and the Martyrs' Memorial, which could be pleasant on a cool day. The Museum is in the grounds of the Zoo.